3 Around the Lakes

Local Knowledge

Directions

From Drumlin Trails proceed left in the direction of Glaslough for about less than half a mile and turn left in the direction of Monmurray lough. From here continue onwards across the Knockaginny bridge until you reach the Aughnacloy Caledon road. Turn left again heading in the direction of Aughnacloy. Just before you reach Caledon Precission Engineering Ltd on your left turn left again heading through Mullan village. You will come next to a Y-junction at which point bear right in the direction and take a right turn when you come to the next junction. Take the next left turn bringing you round Lough Emy. Turning left at the next junction leads you onto the Glaslough/Emyvale road. Turn right here and next left at the GAA football grounds takes takes you towards Tully ring fort overlooking Tully lake below. Returning to the Emyvale/Glaslough road turn right and you are on your way back to Drumlin Trails base less than a mile away.

Points of interest

  1. Before reaching Monmurray lough there is a laneway separating 2 cottages on your left which leads to Tonyshandny ringfort on the top of the hill. In this townland also lived a community in a hidden dip in the valley which was known locally as the pocket because of its inaccessability.
  2. Monmurray lough. Nearby was the last household location of the McKenna clan dynasty Major John McKenna, who was defeated at the battle of Drumbanagher in 1688. Legend has it that McKenna’s treasures are buried in the depths of Monmurray lough.
  3. New bridge over the Blackwater re-connecting old separated communities torn apart during the troubles in Northern Ireland.
  4. The Clogher Valley tramway ran parallel to the Aughnacloy/Caledon road with a halt at the end of the Emyvale road.
  5. Former boot manufacturing factory Mullan village now a modern Monaghan Lighting company.
  6. Busy Bee ceramics (also now located in Glaslough Village).
  7. Site of former Emy Mills.
  8. Roadside cottage where the McCluskey/Savave family took care of opening and closing the sluice gate at the end of Emy lough controlling the supply of water to Emy and Mullan mills.
  9. Crannog (submerged).
  10. McKenna residence and H.Q. after Battle of Kinsale 1601 in Portinaghy.
  11. Tully Ringfort and H.Q. of the McKenna chief prior to Kinsale 1601. There was a crannog on Tully lough with access via a causeway used by McKenna.

Trail 3  Around the Lakes (this is a trail covering a distance of around 11 miles taking approximately 1 hour to complete). This route is a mainly quiet and relaxing cycle route traversing the Blackwater River and taking in the tranquil country scenery with some interesting landmarks along the way.

Starting off from Drumlin Trails Bike Hire, head towards Glaslough taking the first left junction in the direction of Monmurrry Lough. Just before Monmurray Lough are two cottages separated by a narrow laneway which disappears over the hillside. At the end of this winding roadway once lived a community of people the last of whom died in the 1960s. This little hamlet was in the townland of Tonyshandny which also had a ring fort overlooking it from the hilltop. Because this community was tucked away in the valley between the rolling landscape hidden from sight it was affectionately  known locally as “the Pocket”. Although now sadly all traces of this habitation have been erased in time, such places evoke memories of a pre-famine period existence similar to other better preserved village throughout Ireland.

It was alongside here in the townland of Monmurray that Major John McKenna resided in 1688 prior to his execution following the battle of Drumbanagher. Legend has it that McKenna’s treasures are buried in the bottom of Monmurry Lough. McKennas Headquarters prior to the plantation period was at Tully fort overlooking Tully Lough. After the Battle of Kinsale he removed to Portinaghy House again overlooking a lake, Lough Emy. His last address was here at Monmurray again with a ring fort nearby and the small lake beneath

Proceed straight along this route until you come to a bridge connecting Counties Monaghan and Tyrone at Knockaginny under which flows the Blackwater river. In its day this crossing was known as an unapproved border road not having a permanent Customs Post on it. Like many other similar unapproved crossing points places like these were a challenge to Revenue officials to keep under control. The only way they had of doing this was by patrol spot checks and covert surveillance. For many people residing close to these border crossings smuggling was a way of life and for some a necessity. With the elimination of economic tariffs and the harmonization of taxes within the EU the need for vigilance of goods movement along these roads became unnecessary. The Troubles in Northern Ireland focused a great deal of attention on these roads as they were considered an easy escape route for paramilitary groups perpetrating bombing attacks on RUC stations and MOD bases. For that reason the majority of these roads were cratered, bridges removed or otherwise barricaded to make them impassable from the early 1970s until the early 1990s. Having enjoyed a brief period of relaxation with the commencement of the Peace process, a period following a generation gap which saw communities who had been separated for years now coming together in a shared space heretofore considered “no mans land”, now these communities find themselves being confronted with the prospect of “Brexit”!

Continue onwards until you come to the Derrycourtney Road and turn left in the direction of Aughnacloy. This is a busy road with no cycle lane so it is necessary to be extra careful. Parallel to this road ran the Clogher Valley Rail line the only remnants  of which possibly can be observed lie smothered in the woodland vegetation to your left hand side. At your next junction  just before Caledon Precision Engineering works you will be turning left in the direction of Mullan village. At this point where you turn left was what was known as the Emyvale Road halt on the Clogher Valley Rail line. Many a time in its existence this little narrow gauge rail system was stopped and boarded by Police, Customs, and by the “B” Specials alike.

Clogher Valley Tram on Main Street, Caledon

Clogher Valley Tram on Main Street, Caledon

As you cross over the Blackwater river again at Ballagh bridge you are re-entering Southern Ireland.  The next vantage point  that you come to  is the old Mullan Mills Boot factory (now an international lighting manufacturing company).

Clogher Valley Tramway Notice

Mullan Mill

As a border village smuggling was very much part of the local scene and a way to help make ends meet. This was an ongoing battle of wits between local people and the Customs Officials on both sides of the Border as illustrated in this anecdote supplied by Seamus McCluskey from Emyvale.

During World War Two, I was caught smuggling loaves of white bread form Clarke’s Shop across the Blackwater River at Ballagh Bridge. Coming past the Boot Factory a Customs Patrol Man stopped me and confiscated the bread. This was the same official who lodged in my mother’s house who on realising that he might not have white bread for his tea that evening, quickly changed his mind, returned the bread and told me to be on my way’

This village in many ways encapsulates everything that is right and that is wrong with life in a border community. At one stage this village had in its heyday its own shop, its post office besides a local dance hall and the houses which were designed to accommodate the workforce of the Boot Mill were brimming full of life. With the onset of the troubles and the difficulty of blocked-off border roads etc., this once industrious little place found itself out on a limb and over time the population of the main street had dwindled down to just one citizen. The last Boot and Shoe manufacturer James Boylan Ltd., who were the owners of the village decided to put their deserted village and Mill on the market.  The village in its dilapidated state featured on the front page of one of the Sunday national newspapers. With courage, patience and vision the present day owners of Mullan Lighting invested in this project and painstakingly brought this old village back to life again. It is now a vibrant village with extra housing added on to give it a mix of old and new to complement each other. With Caledon Precision Engineering north of the border and Mullan Lighting south a large proportion of employees from both firms reside on opposite sides of the frontier. In the aftermath of the Peace Process with the re-opening of Ballagh bridge along this stretch it became possible once again for these two communities to re-integrate and share in the labour pool for the workplace. What has been especially noticeable is the ease with which people from both jurisdictions can commute for social purposes. With the prospect of  the implementation of “Brexit” looming, a huge question mark now hangs over the North/South border region once again! The uncertainty already is beginning to be felt especially by people engaged in the fresh food industry and agriculture in general. Such has been the ups and downs of residing in a town. Lets hope it never becomes a Ghost town ever again!

In the same buildings as occupied by Mullan Lighting now with a front entrance from the roadside,  Busy Bee Ceramics is a pottery workshop run by Brenda McGinn. By appointment Brenda will show you a sample of her products or allow you watch her give a demonstration or maybe she may even allow you to throw a pot on the wheel yourself. Look up Busy Bee Ceramics at http://www.busybeeceramics.ie (also now located in Glaslough Village).

Leaving the village, head in the direction of Emyvale making sure to go right when you come to the Y-junction. Turn right at the end of this short road and shortly you will find sheds on your left side where once a stone built 10-storey high building stood. This impressive building was Emy Mills at one time a corn mill and in more recent years specialised in the manufacturing of hay rakes. The water which turned this huge wheel pictures above drove 4 separate stone wheels. All the water came from the nearby Emy Lough and this course of water also turned the mill wheel at Mullan.

Emy Mills

Emy Mills

Take the next left narrow roadway leading you along the length of Emy Lough from its narrowest to its widest end.  When the lake comes into view you will see a roadside cottage on your right hand side. The occupants of this household opened and closed the sluice gate on a daily basis for a number of generations thereby regulating and controlling the flow of water needed to turn the Mills further down stream. Down the laneway opposite this house access to the sluice gate can be obtained but is only permissible nowadays to the custodians of the Group Water Development.

Emy Mills big wheel

Emy Mills big wheel

Back on the road proceed along this stretch keeping left when you reach the next junction which will take you to the car park and main entrance to the newly constructed pathway which leads to the bathing area and continues in a loop round the lake. Visible from the car park is the marker denoting the Island which is rarely visible above the surface of the water except at times when there is a continuous dry spell of weather. This island was in fact a crannog dwelling place and is indicated also as the McKenna  HQ. in a study by Siobhain McDermott of McKenna’s 12 tates of private demesne following the Fitzwilliam Settlements of 1590s. You will remember earlier on this cycle trail Major John McKenna had resided at Monmurray near that lake around the year 1688. Here in the townland of Portinaghy sweeping down to Lough Emy from the Glaslough side Mc Kenna had his headquarters after the Battle of Kinsale.

Edging carefully onto the Emyvale/Glaslough Road turn right in the direction of Emyvale and take the first turn to your left at St Oliver Plunkett’s GFC grounds. The Emyvale football club adopted St Oliver as the patron saint of their new football grounds when it was officially opened for the first time. The reason for the choice of St Oliver was that during the height of Penal days persecution Oliver then Bishop confirmed children of this parish at a spot opposite the far entrance to this Tully road. Continuing along this road you will come to high encircled embankment which is privately owned. This was the famous ring fort from where the Chieftain for the Barony of Truagh McKenna ruled his subjects under the old Gaelic System of administration.

Tully Ring Fort

Tully Ring Fort

With the defeat of the Irish at the Battle of Kinsale in 1601 saw the overthrow of McKennas supremacy in North Monaghan and the emergence of the English system of law under the Plantation of Ulster. The last Chief to reign at Tully was Neal and he would appear to have still resided at Tully until after the 1641 Insurection of Ulster. His fort at Tully was plundered following his defeat in 1642 at the hands of Hamilton. It was at this stage that he removed to the neighbouring townland of Portinaghy as already mentioned. It is worth noting that Tully fort overlooked the lake of the same name below it and that a crannog evidence of which existence was excavated and proven. This promontory is faintly visible from the ring fort above. Tully Lough was a much wider lough at one time but because a plentiful supply of water was needed to keep mill wheels operating at maximum potential water From the nearby river Mountain which flows through Emyvale village was diverted towards Emy Lough thereby causing the levels of Tully lough to dip considerably. A causeway in times past would have taken one from the shoreline to Tully’s crannog. These were usually zig-zag in patern and not visible over the lake’s surface level to cause maximum confusion to any would-be invader. From here you can return to the Emyvale/Glaslough Road again where you will turning right again and heading back to Drumlin Trails Bike Hire base.

Hope you enjoyed your tour of the Lakes.